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Domestic bliss
08 May 2014


  Spring nettle soup, home made granola, blazing fires, chairs to fall back and doze in and gorgeous  beds make Ett Hem in Stockholm  a  luxurious home from home.  I am hooked after spending the weekend in this intimate 12 bedroom hotel designed by Ilse Crawford.





   Elegant and understated  Ett Hem  is   a carefully curated mix of  modern, vintage and bespoke pieces with a Scandinavian feel.  I especially like the rustic  pottery tableware , above, by Birgitta Watz whose studio is in the city.

 One evening after dinner in the conservatory, we wrap up in blankets to sit by the brazier in Ett Hem`s walled garden decorated with   twinkling strings of lights,  tulips and daffodils.  Perfect!






   More  design inspiration at  Svenskt Tenn  where I tip toe through  Josef frank`s tulip prints.
 



Rugs the colour of Swedish summer berries and woods by Mart Maas-Fjetterstrom, see below,  in the window of a small shop not far from
Ostermalms food hall.




Twentieth century furniture, glass, see below, ceramics and  jewellery at   Modernity





We don`t  make it out to one of the islands of the archipelago  but we do run  around the shimmering canal by the royal park , joining  mothers jogging with strollers and longlimbed Vikings in lycra

 The organic garden at Rosendals  is heavenly. The orchard of native apple trees is bursting into leaf, a reminder of how far north we are. I like the pick your-own-tulips,  the scented Joseph Frank-like  border planting, and delicious biscuits at the cafe.









  Stockholm  foodie highlights:  classic herring plates  and crayfish toasts at   Lisa Elmquist  in Ostermalms  food hall  and the snug  Hip Pocket ( check out the simple patterned  blue tiles ). We are also  elegantly barside  at       Mathias Dahlgren   another  Ilse Crawford project,   where we feast on  modern arrangements of  tartare of fallow deer and salted whitefish roe ; grilled Swedish quid and cucumber, and fried white asparagus and black morels. Delicious.

Try here, below,  for daily bread






I recommend Skansen outdoor museum, with Swedish houses from every period, see 18C summerhouse below.  Disarming to be greeted at the door of the 1930`s house by a woman with shingled hair  boiling very smelly potatoes on the stove and  bemoaning the price of servants. Living history. 




Can`t believe how many kms we`ve covered- at last 15k according to the  distance app. Stockholm is a brilliant city for discovering on foot.  I`m not sure whether the experience would be so comfortable in winter. We have a taste of it with flurries of snow  at  Skogskyrkogarden woodland cemetery. The layout is stunning and contemplative: towering pine trees, grass and simple headstones . See one of the chapels below.




Tags: Sweden, Stockholm, spring, simple, comfort, domestic bliss, colour,


 
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